Hardware
Kick Plates and Door Protection Plates
By the Div08 Consulting team · Updated
A kick plate is a metal or plastic plate fastened to the bottom of a door, on the push side, to protect it from shoes, carts and wheelchairs. Common heights are 8, 10 and 12 inches. On fire-rated doors, a plate whose top edge sits more than 16 inches above the bottom of the door must be labeled.
Kick plates, mop plates and armor plates
Protection plates are named by where they go and how tall they are. They are covered by the BHMA standard for architectural door trim (ANSI/BHMA A156.6).
| Plate | Where it goes | Typical height | What it protects against |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kick plate | Push side, bottom of door | 8 to 12 inches | Feet, pushing, light carts |
| Mop plate | Pull side, bottom of door | 4 to 6 inches | Mops, floor machines, cleaning carts |
| Armor plate | Push side, bottom of door | Typically 34 to 48 inches tall | Carts, gurneys, hand trucks, beds |
| Stretcher plate | Push side, at bumper height | Band across the door | Gurneys and beds in healthcare |
Pick the plate based on what actually hits the door. A hospital corridor door that sees beds daily needs an armor plate, not a 10 inch kick plate.
How to size a kick plate
Height is a judgment call based on traffic. Width is set by convention so the plate clears the stops and the edges of the door.
- Single doors, push side: a common convention is the door width less 2 inches, which keeps the plate clear of the stop and the hinge edge.
- Pull side or pairs: a common convention is the door width less 1 inch, since there is no stop to clear.
- Height: 8 or 10 inches covers most foot traffic; go to 12 inches where carts or wheelchairs push the door.
- Narrow bottom rails: on aluminum storefront and glass doors, the plate cannot be taller than the bottom rail.
Spec tip
write plate sizes as a formula (for example, door width less 2 inches by 10 inches) instead of a fixed dimension, so the same line works across every door width in the set.
Materials and finishes
Stainless steel is the default in commercial work because it takes abuse and matches most hardware. Brass and bronze are used where the finish calls for them. Plastic and laminate plates are lighter, cheaper and quieter, and they come in colors, but check fire-rated use (see below).
- Stainless steel: usually specified as BHMA 630 (satin stainless). See door hardware finishes.
- Thickness: 0.050 inch is a common commercial gauge; heavier gauges exist for high abuse.
- Edges: beveled edges (often specified as beveled on three or four sides) keep the plate from snagging.
- Fastening: countersunk screws, adhesive, or both. Adhesive avoids extra holes, which matters on labeled doors.
Protection plates on fire-rated doors
NFPA 80 allows protection plates on fire doors, but limits them. When the top of the plate is more than 16 inches above the bottom of the door, the plate must be labeled (and installed according to its listing). Plates 16 inches or lower do not need a separate label but still must be installed in a way that does not damage the door's rating, typically with screws or adhesive as the door manufacturer allows.
- Armor plates on labeled doors are the common trap: they are almost always taller than 16 inches.
- Factory-installed plates on labeled doors are often the cleanest route.
- Field drilling of labeled doors is limited; follow the door manufacturer's instructions or use adhesive.
- Annual NFPA 80 inspections look at plates and other field changes. See fire-rated doors.
Spec tip
on any labeled door that gets an armor plate, say in the hardware set that the plate must be labeled for use on fire doors. Otherwise the cheapest plate shows up and fails inspection.
Where kick plates belong in a project
Most projects use protection plates on corridor doors, back-of-house doors, toilet room doors that swing with traffic, and any door with a closer that people push with a foot or cart. They are usually unnecessary on office doors with light use.
Plate decisions are made door by door in the door hardware sets. If you want that done consistently across a full project, see door hardware specifications.
Frequently asked questions
What size kick plate do I need?
A common convention is door width less 2 inches for the push side of a single door, at 8, 10 or 12 inches tall depending on traffic. Pull-side plates and pairs often use door width less 1 inch.
Which side of the door does a kick plate go on?
The push side, where feet and carts make contact. A mop plate goes on the pull side.
Can you put a kick plate on a fire door?
Yes. Under NFPA 80, plates whose top edge is 16 inches or less above the bottom of the door do not need their own label. Taller plates, such as armor plates, must be labeled.
What is the best material for a kick plate?
Stainless steel (BHMA 630) is the standard for commercial doors. Plastic plates work for lighter duty and color matching, but check fire-rated requirements.
General guidance only. Code requirements depend on the edition your jurisdiction has adopted and on the listing of each fire-rated assembly; confirm with the authority having jurisdiction. Published by Div08 Consulting (John Voll, owner).